Everything You’ll Need

Tool / Material

Ceramic Tile

Porcelain Tile

Purpose

Tape Measure

✔

Measure room size and tile space

Chalk Line

✔

Mark lines and guides

Straight Edge

✔

Guide straight cuts and lines

Pry Bar

✔

Take out baseboards or old floors

Spacers

✔

Keep grout spaces even

Notched Trowel

✔

Spread mortar on the floor evenly

Mixing Paddle & Drill

✔

Mix mortar and grout well

Wet Saw or Tile Cutter

✔

Cut tiles for edges and corners

Utility Knife

✔

Trim underlayment or score board

Level

✔

Make sure tiles are flat and even

Grout Float

✔

Push grout into joints properly

Bucket & Sponge

✔

Clean tiles and remove grout haze

Knee Pads

✔

Protect knees while working

Safety Glasses

✔

Protect eyes during cutting

Gloves

✔

Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take Off Baseboards and Old Floors

First, take off any baseboards and old floors to show the subfloor. This makes a smooth area for your tile.

Use a pry bar to gently take off the baseboards without breaking the walls. If changing carpet, laminate, or vinyl, cut them into small parts and clear any glue. For old tile, use a hammer and chisel or a floor scraper to take them off.

Clean the Subfloor Well

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to remove dust, dirt, and debris. A clean area helps the mortar stick well and keeps the floor smooth.

Check for Damage or Wetness

Look at the subfloor for cracks, holes, or uneven spots. Use a level to find dips or high points.

Cracks or holes: Fill them with patching compound.
Uneven areas: Use a leveling compound for a flat base.
If on concrete, check for moisture with a meter. Fix any moisture issues first.

Put Down Underlayment or Backer Board (if needed)

Based on your subfloor type:

Wood subfloors: Install backer board for a water-resistant base.
Concrete subfloors: Usually need no underlayment, but a membrane might help.

Attach backer board panels as per instructions, using correct screws and leaving gaps between panels.

Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout

Find the Center of the Room and Mark Guidelines

Start by finding the room’s center. Measure to find the middle of each wall and mark lines on the floor both ways. The crossing point is where you begin placing tiles. This keeps the tile pattern balanced.

Choose Your Tile Layout Pattern

Simple patterns are best for beginners:

Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Tiles line up square with the walls for straight rows.
Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Tiles are placed at a 45-degree angle for a lively look — a bit harder but doable.

Note: Complex designs like herringbone or chevron need more skill and aren’t suggested for beginners.

Dry-Fit Tiles to Check Alignment

Lay some tiles without mortar (called dry-fitting). This helps you to:

Check how they line up and space out.
See how tiles fit against walls or doorways.
Avoid small tile slices at room edges, which can break easily.

Spacing and Grout Lines

Use spacers between tiles during dry fitting for even grout lines. Typical spacers are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch, based on tile size and style.

Calculate Tile Quantity (Add 10–15% for Waste)

Measure the room’s area (length × width). Then:

Multiply the area by 1.10 for simple layouts or 1.15 for diagonal layouts to cover cuts and errors.
Order that amount of tile to have enough for the whole job.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

For most tile flooring jobs, especially in big spaces, thinset mortar is the usual way to install. It makes the tiles stick well to the floor underneath.

Common Methods:

Thinset Mortar (Recommended)
This glue made from cement works great for floor tiles. It can handle weight, water, and heat changes. Many do-it-yourself folks and experts use thinset because it lasts long and works well.
Tile Adhesive (Mastic)
Good for small DIY areas or wall tiles in dry spots. It’s easier to use but not strong enough for most floors or wet places.

Note: If tiling a floor, thinset is nearly always the best and safest choice.

Installation Method	Best For	Strength & Durability	DIY Friendliness	Notes
Thinset Mortar	Floor tiles, wet spots (bathrooms, kitchens), big spaces	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Excellent)	Moderate	Standard choice for tile floors. Handles water, weight, and movement.
Tile Adhesive (Mastic)	Small dry spots, wall tiles	⭐⭐ (Limited)	Easy	Not good for floor tiles or wet places. Quicker to use but not as strong.

Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor

Mix the Mortar
Mix the thinset mortar as the instructions say. Use a clean bucket and a drill with a mixing paddle to make it smooth and without lumps. Let it sit for a few minutes, then mix again before using.

Spread the Mortar
Use a notched trowel to spread the mortar evenly on a small part of the floor. Hold the trowel at 45 degrees to make even ridges. These ridges help the tile stick well and ensure a level floor.

Work in Small Sections
Only cover as much area as you can tile in about 10–15 minutes. This stops the mortar from drying before you set the tiles.

Pro Tip:
For larger tiles, put a thin layer of mortar on the back of the tile for better sticking, especially if tiles are over 12 inches.

Step 5: Lay the First Tiles

Starting properly will set the tone for the entire project.

Begin at Your Layout Center Point
Using the chalk lines from your layout planning, start at the room’s center or your chosen focal point. This ensures tiles are evenly distributed across the space.

Set the First Tile
Place the first tile into the mortar. Press firmly and slightly twist it to help the mortar bond.

Use Tile Spacers
Insert spacers between each tile to maintain uniform gaps for grout. This will ensure a clean, professional finish.

Check for Level
After placing a few tiles, use a level to confirm the surface is even. Adjust as needed before the mortar sets.

Pro Tip:
Work in small sections so the mortar doesn’t dry out before the tiles are set!

Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit

Accurate cutting is key for a polished, professional-looking finish.

Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to determine the size of the tile piece you need. Mark the cutting line clearly with a pencil or wax pencil.

Choose the Right Tool

For straight cuts, a manual tile cutter works well.
For curved or intricate cuts, use a wet saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.

Cut in a Safe Area
Always make cuts outdoors or in a well-ventilated space to avoid dust buildup. Wear safety glasses and gloves for protection.

Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting to reduce waste and ensure a perfect fit!

Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure

Once the first tiles are set, continue laying the remaining tiles row by row. Work outward from your starting point, placing each tile carefully with spacers to maintain uniform grout lines. Regularly check that tiles are level and adjust as needed to prevent uneven surfaces.

As you progress, avoid walking on newly set tiles to prevent shifting. Work in manageable sections to ensure the mortar doesn’t dry out before tiles are placed.

After all tiles are installed, allow the mortar to cure for at least 24 hours (or as recommended by the manufacturer) before proceeding to grout. Proper curing is essential for a durable and long-lasting tile floor.

Step 8: Apply Grout

Once the mortar has fully cured, it’s time to grout the joints between the tiles:

Mix the Grout
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the grout to a smooth, peanut butter-like consistency.
Spread Grout Using a Float
Use a rubber grout float held at a 45° angle to spread the grout across the tile surface. Press firmly to ensure the grout fills all the joints completely.
Remove Excess Grout
After filling the joints, hold the float at a steep angle and scrape away excess grout from the tile surfaces.
Clean the Tiles with a Damp Sponge
Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, then use a damp sponge to gently wipe the tile surfaces clean. Rinse the sponge frequently and avoid removing grout from the joints.
Final Buffing
Once the grout begins to haze on the tile (after another 30–60 minutes), use a dry microfiber cloth to buff the surface and remove any remaining haze.

Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor

Remove Grout Haze
After the grout has dried (usually 24 to 48 hours), a hazy residue will appear on the tile surfaces. Use a damp sponge or specialized grout haze remover to gently clean the tiles. Be careful not to disturb the grout lines.

Apply Grout Sealer
If recommended by the grout manufacturer, apply a grout sealer to protect the grout from moisture, stains, and mold. Use a small applicator brush or a sealer bottle with a roller tip for precision. Allow the sealer to cure fully according to the product instructions.

Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips
Once everything is clean and dry, reinstall your baseboards and add any necessary transition strips between different flooring types or rooms. This gives your new tile floor a polished, professional finish.

DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation

While installing tile flooring yourself can save money, it’s not always the right choice for every project. Here’s how to decide if DIY or hiring a pro is best for you.

DIY Pros

Lower upfront cost
Flexibility to work at your own pace
Great for small, simple rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms)

DIY Cons

Requires time, precision, and specialized tools
Mistakes can lead to costly repairs
Challenging for complex layouts or large spaces

Professional Installation Pros

Expert precision and long-lasting results
Faster completion, especially for large areas
Includes subfloor preparation, cutting, and cleanup
Warranties often included

Professional Installation Cons

Higher upfront cost
Less control over timeline

Cost Comparison

Here’s what you can typically expect to pay:

Installation Type	Average Cost per Sq Ft	Typical Total for 250 Sq Ft
DIY Installation	$2 – $8 (materials + rental tools)	$500 – $2,000
Professional Installation	$8 – $25	$2,000 – $6,250

👉 For a full breakdown, check out our Tile Flooring Cost Guide.

Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation

Want to get pro-level results from your DIY tile project? Keep these tips in mind:

Save time by organizing tools and tiles before starting. Lay out tiles and tools within easy reach.
Use a high-quality wet saw for clean, precise cuts — especially for porcelain tiles.
Mix small batches of mortar and grout. This prevents drying out before use.
Check for level frequently with a spirit level as you lay tiles.
Work in small sections. This ensures the mortar doesn’t dry before you place the tiles.
Minimize breakage. Always cut tiles slowly and wear safety glasses.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Tile Flooring

Even experienced DIYers can make these common errors:

Skipping subfloor leveling. An uneven subfloor can cause cracked tiles and uneven lines.
Forgetting spacers. Inconsistent grout lines lead to an unprofessional look.
Walking on tiles before the mortar cures. This can shift tiles and ruin alignment.
Using too much or too little mortar. This can cause poor adhesion or tiles sitting unevenly.
Not cleaning grout haze promptly. Leaving grout haze too long can make it very hard to remove.

Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?

Now that you’ve learned how to install tile flooring step-by-step, you’re well on your way to creating a strong, beautiful surface that can last for decades. But if you’d rather leave the precision work — like leveling, cutting, and grouting — to the pros, we’re here to help.

Our expert flooring installation team can handle every detail for you — from prepping the subfloor to carefully laying and sealing each tile — ensuring a flawless, long-lasting result. We’ll also help you select the right tile style and materials for your space and budget.

Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and find out if we serve your area!

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