Everything You’ll Need

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Step 1: Prepare the Space

Remove Baseboards and Old Flooring

Start by taking out any old flooring and baseboards to see the subfloor. This gives you a clean area and helps hardwood fit well at the edges.

Use a pry bar to gently remove baseboards without harming the drywall so they can be put back later. Take out any carpet, vinyl, laminate, or previous hardwood, and make sure all old glue or staples are removed.

Clean and Level the Subfloor

Sweep and vacuum the whole subfloor to clear dust, nails, debris, or glue. Check for low or high spots using a straight edge or long level.

  • For high areas: sand them down.

  • For low areas: use a leveling compound to fill and smooth uneven spots.

A flat and even subfloor stops squeaks and helps floors last longer.

Check for Moisture or Damage

Moisture can cause hardwood floors to fail. Use a moisture meter to check both the subfloor and hardwood pieces.

  • For wood subfloors: moisture should be below 12%.

  • For concrete subfloors: follow the manufacturer’s limits — usually below 4% with a calcium chloride test.

If moisture is too high, stop installation and fix the problem first.

Install Underlayment or Vapor Barrier (If Required)

Depending on the flooring and subfloor, you might need an underlayment or moisture barrier:

  • Over concrete: use a vapor barrier or underlayment with moisture protection.

  • Over plywood or OSB: a rosin paper, felt underlayment, or foam pad may be advised.

Follow the manufacturer’s rules to keep warranties valid and ensure the best performance. Lay the underlayment flat, with no overlaps, and tape seams if needed.

Step 2: Plan Your Hardwood Layout

Pick Your Starting Wall

For most rooms, it’s good to lay hardwood planks along the longest or most visible wall. This helps the room look bigger. If putting in multiple rooms, think about how planks will match up at doorways and transitions.

Use a chalk line to mark a straight line along your starting wall. This keeps your first rows straight and the rest will follow.

Let the Flooring Adjust

Before you start, let your hardwood planks get used to the room’s temperature and humidity for at least 48 to 72 hours. Keep the boxes flat in the room where the floor goes and open the ends for air.

This helps the wood adapt to the environment and lowers the chance of expansion or gaps later.

Try a Dry Layout

Lay a few rows of boards without attaching them to see how your layout will appear. This helps you:

  • Make sure the layout looks balanced

  • Avoid thin planks near walls

  • Plan for obstacles like vents or doors

Use this time to mix boards from different boxes to spread color and grain evenly.

Stagger Seams and Avoid Patterns

For a natural look, stagger the end joints of planks by at least 6 to 8 inches in nearby rows. Don’t repeat lengths or make “stair-step” patterns, which can make seams obvious.

Tip: Change plank lengths and mix them across rows for a more natural look.

Figure Out Material Needs (Add Extra for Waste)

Measure your space’s square footage (length × width) and then add 10% for cutting waste and future repairs.

If the room has odd shapes or you lay planks diagonally, increase waste allowance to 12–15%.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

Before you start putting down boards, pick the best way to install based on your hardwood type and subfloor. Each way needs different tools and techniques.

Nail-Down Installation (Most Common for Solid Hardwood)

This old method works well for solid hardwood on wooden subfloors like plywood. Use a nailer or stapler to attach each board.

  • Best for: Solid hardwood over wood subfloors

  • Tools needed: Flooring nailer, mallet, air compressor

  • Pros: Very secure and long-lasting

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate (needs precision and the right tools)

Glue-Down Installation

Mainly for engineered hardwood on concrete, this way uses adhesive on the subfloor and pressing boards into place.

  • Best for: Engineered hardwood over concrete

  • Tools needed: Flooring adhesive, notched trowel, floor roller

  • Pros: Strong bond and low profile

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate to high (messier and needs ventilation)

Floating Installation (Click-Lock)

Popular for DIYers using click-lock engineered hardwood, planks lock and “float” over an underlayment without nails or glue.

  • Best for: Click-lock engineered hardwood over any flat surface

  • Tools needed: Spacers, tapping block, underlayment

  • Pros: Fast, clean, beginner-friendly

  • DIY Difficulty: Easy

Pro Tip: For solid hardwood on a wooden subfloor, nail-down is usually best. For engineered hardwood, DIYers often like floating floors as they are simpler and don’t need tools.

Step 4: Mark Guidelines and Snap Chalk Lines

Before you start, make sure to create a straight line to help with the flooring installation.

Create a Chalk Line Next to the Starting Wall
Choose the wall where you’ll begin, usually the longest one in the room. Measure the width of a board, including space for expansion, and draw a chalk line parallel to this wall. This will guide your first row.

Keep Rows Aligned Using the Line
While laying boards, keep them in line with the chalk line. This keeps the flooring straight throughout the room.

Leave a 1/2″ Space for Expansion
Wood changes with humidity, so leave a 1/2-inch gap between the flooring and walls or other fixtures. This prevents buckling as the floor expands.

Step 5: Lay the First Row of Planks

Trim Door Jambs if Needed
Before putting down the first plank, see if it needs to fit under door frames or trim. Use a saw to cut the door jamb bottoms so planks fit underneath nicely without gaps.

Start with Groove Side Facing the Wall
Put the first plank with the groove side toward the wall — this helps the next row click or lock into place easily. Begin on the longest, straightest wall to make sure the flooring lines up well in the room.

Secure the First Row
Depending on your installation method:

  • Nail-down: Use a nailer to attach the boards to the subfloor through the tongue side.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue with a trowel and press each plank into place firmly.

  • Floating (click-lock): Angle the second plank into the first and click to lock.

Make sure the planks are tight together with no gaps along the seams.

Use Spacers to Maintain Expansion Gaps
Put 1/2″ spacers between the planks and the wall. This gap lets the hardwood expand and contract naturally with humidity and temperature changes, stopping buckling or warping over time.

Step 6: Install the Remaining Flooring

After securing the first row, keep adding hardwood planks one row at a time.

Stagger the End Joints for Stability
To make the floor strong and look natural, make sure the end joints are staggered by at least 6 inches in each row. Do not line up joints in back-to-back rows, as this can weaken the floor and make a pattern.

Use a Tapping Block for a Tight Fit
Put a tapping block on the edge of each plank and gently hit it with a mallet to close any gaps. This keeps each board snug without harming the tongue or groove.

Secure Boards Based on Your Method

  • Nail-down: Hammer nails through the tongue at a 45° angle every 6–8 inches.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue evenly and press planks firmly.

  • Floating floor: Click the boards together end-to-end and side-to-side.

Check for Level Frequently
Every few rows, use a level to ensure the floor stays flat. Adjust as needed to prevent future problems.

Step 7: Cut Boards to Fit Edges and Corners

When you get close to walls or obstacles in the room, cut the last planks to fit perfectly.

Measure and Mark Carefully
Use a tape measure to find the exact space left, taking away 1/2″ for an expansion gap. Mark the plank with a pencil or chalk.

Use the Right Saw for the Job

  • Miter saw: Great for clean, straight cuts.

  • Jigsaw: Best for curved cuts around vents, door frames, or odd shapes.

Always cut on a stable surface and wear safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from dust and debris.

Maintain Expansion Gaps
Leave a 1/2″ gap between the flooring and all vertical surfaces like walls, pipes, and cabinets. This lets the hardwood expand and contract without buckling.

Step 8: Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips

Reattach Baseboards and Shoe Molding
After putting in your hardwood planks, make the room look nice by reattaching baseboards around the edges. If you had shoe molding before, put that back too for a neat finish.

Install Transition Strips
Place transition strips at doorways and where different floors meet, like hardwood and carpet. Use T-moldings, reducers, or thresholds based on the flooring height and type.

Leave Room for Movement
When attaching trim, avoid securing it to the hardwood floor to allow for expansion. Always attach trim to the wall or subfloor, not the floor itself.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect Your Floor

After installing your hardwood floor, clean it well and check to make sure everything looks good before using it.

Sweep and Vacuum Thoroughly
Use a broom or a vacuum with a soft brush to get rid of all sawdust and debris. This helps you see the floor clearly and avoids scratches when checking or adding furniture.

Inspect for Issues
Look for gaps, uneven planks, or creaks as you walk. Use a tapping block to fix slightly misaligned boards or follow your installation method if changes are needed.

Let the Floor Settle
If you glued the floor down, wait 24–48 hours before adding furniture or rugs. This helps the glue dry fully and keeps things in place.

Pro Tips for a Successful Hardwood Installation

Getting hardwood floors to look professional needs careful preparation and accuracy. These tips help you work better and avoid problems:

  • Always test for moisture with a moisture meter before installing — this stops cupping or buckling later.

  • Use knee pads to save your joints during long floor work, and make sure there’s good ventilation if using adhesives.

  • Check alignment every few rows to keep planks straight and flush.

  • Work in manageable sections instead of rushing the whole room — this keeps quality high.

  • Take your time on cuts. Clean, accurate cuts make tight seams and professional results.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Hardwood

Even skilled DIYers can have problems if these mistakes aren’t avoided:

  • Skipping the acclimation period can make wood expand or contract after installing.

  • Neglecting subfloor moisture and flatness causes instability, noise, or gaps.

  • Failing to stagger seams weakens structure and makes it look uneven.

  • Nailing too close to the edge of the plank can cause splits or cracks.

  • Forgetting to use spacers leaves no room for expansion, leading to buckling.

DIY vs. Professional Hardwood Installation

Doing hardwood floor installation yourself can save money but isn’t for everyone. Here’s how to choose between DIY and hiring experts.

DIY Pros:

  • Spend less on the project

  • Set your own pace and timing

  • Feel proud of doing it yourself

DIY Cons:

  • Takes a lot of time and effort

  • Needs careful planning and special tools

  • Errors can be expensive to fix

Professional Installation Pros:

  • Quick, skilled work with little hassle

  • Includes floor prep and cleaning

  • Usually comes with a warranty

Professional Installation Cons:

  • Costs more for labor

  • Less control over scheduling

📊 Side-by-Side Comparison Table

Tool / MaterialSolid Hardwood (Nail-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Glue-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Floating/Click-Lock)Purpose
Tape Measure✔✔✔Measure layout and planks
Chalk Line✔✔✔Mark layout lines
Pry Bar✔✔✔Remove old flooring/baseboards
Moisture Meter✔✔✔Check subfloor moisture
Level✔✔✔Ensure even subfloor
SpacersOptional✔✔Maintain expansion gap at walls
Flooring Nailer / Stapler✔✘✘Secure solid planks to subfloor
Flooring Adhesive✘✔✘Glue engineered wood to subfloor
Trowel (for adhesive)✘✔✘Spread adhesive evenly
Click-Lock Installation Kit✘✘✔Includes tapping block, pull bar, spacers
Miter Saw✔✔✔Make crosscuts on planks
Jigsaw / Oscillating Tool✔✔✔Trim around obstacles
Safety Glasses✔✔✔Eye protection while cutting
Knee Pads
FeatureDIY InstallationProfessional Installation
Average Cost per Sq Ft$3 – $8 (materials + tools)$7 – $18 (includes labor)
Best ForBudget-conscious, handy homeownersBusy homeowners, large or complex jobs
Time CommitmentSeveral days or weekends1–2 days (typical)
Risk of MistakesModerate to highLow
Tool Investment Required✔❌ (provided by installer)
SatisfactionHigh (if done well)High (with professional finish)

👉 For a full breakdown of costs, methods, and scenarios, visit our Hardwood Flooring Cost Guide