Everything You’ll Need
| Tool/Material | Laminate Flooring | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Utility Knife | ✔ | Cut underlayment and trim laminate edges |
| Tape Measure | ✔ | Measure room size and plank cuts |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | Make straight cuts and align |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | Remove baseboards or old flooring |
| Spacers | ✔ | Keep expansion gaps by walls |
| Tapping Block | ✔ | Tap planks together gently |
| Non-Marring Hammer | ✔ | Use with tapping block for tight fits |
| Laminate Cutter or Saw | ✔ | Cut planks to size |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | Protect knees during installation |
| Level | ✔ | Ensure subfloor and first row are even |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | Mark straight lines |
| Underlayment Roll | ✔ (if needed) | Add cushion and soundproofing |
| Jigsaw or Oscillating Tool | ✔ | Cut shapes around pipes or door jambs |
Step 1: Choose a Layout Pattern
Before you put down laminate flooring, think about how you want the planks to be arranged. Laminate may not have as many pattern choices as vinyl or tile, but your layout can still change how the room looks and feels.
These are the most common and effective patterns for laminate flooring:
Straight Lay Pattern (Most Common)
This is the easiest and most popular way.
Planks go along the longest wall or follow the natural light. It gives a clean, timeless look, perfect for most rooms.
Diagonal Pattern
Gives a more dynamic, high-end appearance.
Planks are placed at a 45-degree angle to the walls, making small rooms look bigger or adding interest to square spaces. This method might need more cutting and extra material.
Random/Variable Stagger
Planks are set in a staggered way, changing plank lengths row by row.
This style looks like natural hardwood and stops patterns or seams from lining up.
Herringbone or Chevron (Advanced/Pro)
Some special laminate floors can be used for herringbone or chevron patterns.
These layouts look great but need precise cuts and more planning. Not all laminate brands have planks for these patterns.
Step 2: Prepare the Space
Take Off Baseboards and Old Flooring
Begin by taking off baseboards and the old flooring to have a clean surface.
Use a pry bar to gently remove the baseboards — go slowly to avoid wall damage so you can reuse the trim.
If changing carpet, cut it into pieces with a utility knife and pull it up.
For tile, vinyl, or wood, follow the right removal steps for each type.
Clean and Check the Subfloor
Sweep and vacuum well to get rid of dust and trash.
Look for cracks, dips, or high spots. Use a leveling compound to fill low areas and sand down high spots. A smooth subfloor is important for a lasting laminate floor.
Put Down Underlayment
Most laminate floors need underlayment unless it is already attached.
Underlayment gives cushioning, cuts down noise, and fixes small subfloor problems.
Roll it out on the subfloor, making sure edges meet without overlapping. Tape seams well.
✅ Pro Tip: If installing over concrete, think about adding a moisture barrier under the underlayment.
Step 3: Choose an Installation Method
Laminate flooring is made for those who like to do it themselves, using a simple way to install: Click-Lock (Floating Floor). Unlike other floors, laminate does not usually need glue or stick-on methods.
Click-Lock (Floating Installation)
The Click-Lock system — also known as tongue-and-groove or interlocking — is the most common and easy method for laminate. Planks click together, making a strong fit without nails or glue.
This way lets the floor “float” over the base, allowing it to grow and shrink naturally with changes in temperature and humidity.
Key Advantages:
No adhesives required — for easy cleanup and fewer supplies.
DIY-friendly — ideal for new learners.
Versatile — suitable over various subfloors like concrete and plywood.
Installation Tips:
Always leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room’s edge using spacers to stop buckling as the floor changes size.
Stick to the manufacturer’s advice for plank placement and clicking methods.
Use a tapping block and pull bar to make sure seams are tight without harming plank edges.
Step 4: Lay the First Row
Trim the Short Tongue Edge of the First Plank
Start by cutting off the short tongue edge of the first plank. This helps it fit snug against the wall for a neat look. Use a utility knife for thin laminates or a circular saw or miter saw for thicker planks.
Position the First Plank 1/4 Inch from the Wall
Put the first plank along the wall, leaving a 1/4-inch gap from the wall. This gap is important because laminate flooring changes with temperature and humidity.
Insert Spacers to Maintain the Expansion Gap
Use spacers between the wall and floor to keep the gap the same as you install the floor. Keep using spacers all around the room.
Stagger End Joints for Stability and Appearance
For the second row, cut the first plank at least 6 inches shorter than the first plank of the previous row. This staggers the end joints, making the floor stronger and look more natural.
Tip: Do not align joints across rows—this can weaken the floor and make it look fake.
Step 5: Cutting Planks to Fit
Straight Cuts — Score and Snap
For straight cuts like ending a plank:
Use a utility knife to mark your cut line.
Snap the plank along the mark for a clean break, best for thin laminates.
For thicker laminate, use a laminate cutter, circular saw, or miter saw for clean cuts.
Irregular Cuts — Around Corners and Obstacles
For cutting around door frames or corners:
Use a jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool.
These tools make precise, curved, or angled cuts.
Cutting Around Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe and add 1 inch for expansion.
Drill a hole in the plank for the pipe size.
Cut a line from the hole to the plank’s edge.
Seal around the pipe with a bead of silicone caulk to prevent moisture.
Tight Spaces — Under Door Jambs
Use a jamb saw to trim the door frame’s bottom.
This lets you slide the plank underneath for a neat look.
Pro Tip: Always wear safety goggles and work slowly with power tools to avoid damage.
| Cutting Task | Recommended Tool(s) | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cuts (length/width) | Utility knife (thin laminate) Laminate cutter or miter saw (standard) | Score and snap for thin laminate Use a saw for clean, straight cuts |
| Irregular cuts (corners, curves) | Jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool | Mark the shape, cut slowly following the line |
| Around pipes | Drill + Jigsaw or Hole saw | Drill a hole + cut a slit to the edge, leave ½” expansion gap |
| Tight spaces (door jambs) | Jamb saw (undercut saw) | Undercut the jamb to slide the plank underneath |
| Final fitting/trimming | Utility knife or laminate cutter | Trim small excess for a snug fit |
Step 6: Laying Subsequent Rows
Angle the Planks into Place
Start a new row by tilting the tongue of the plank into the groove of the last row. Lower it gently until it clicks or fits snugly.
Use a Tapping Block and Non-Marring Hammer
For a snug fit, use a tapping block and a non-marring hammer or mallet.
Place the tapping block at the edge of the plank.
Tap gently to close gaps between planks.
Never use a standard hammer directly on the laminate—it can chip or damage the edges.
Maintain the Staggered Pattern
Keep staggering the end joints by at least 6 inches in each row for stability and a natural look.
Check Expansion Gaps
Use spacers along the walls to keep the 1/4-inch expansion gap during installation.
Step 7: Finishing the Installation
Install Transition Strips
After placing the planks, put transition strips at doorways and where laminate meets other floors. These strips:
Make a smooth, safe changeover.
Guard the edges of the laminate floor.
Follow the maker’s directions for type and setup.
Transitioning to Other Flooring
Choose the right transition type:
T-molding for floors that are the same height.
Reducer strips for lower surfaces like tile or vinyl.
Attach strips to the subfloor—not directly to the laminate—leaving a 1/4-inch expansion gap to stop buckling.
Reinstall Baseboards
Put baseboards back, attaching them to the wall, not the floor. This lets the laminate move under them.
Allow the Floor to Settle
Before putting furniture back or walking a lot on the floor:
Wait at least 48 hours for the laminate to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Laminate Flooring
Installing in Damp Areas
Laminate floors are not good for places with lots of moisture, like bathrooms or laundry rooms. Water can get in the seams and cause swelling or bending.
Using a Hammer on Planks
Do not hit the laminate directly with a hammer. Use a tapping block or pull bar to gently put planks in place without hurting the edges.
Aligning End Joints
Do not line up or overlap the end joints of planks in nearby rows. This makes the floor weak and can cause gaps or uneven spots. Stagger the joints by at least 6 inches.
Missing the Expansion Gap
Not leaving a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room can make the floor buckle as it changes with temperature and humidity.
Walking Too Soon
Let the laminate floor settle for 48 hours after putting it in before walking on it or placing heavy furniture.
Tips for a Successful Laminate Flooring Installation
- Measure Correctly and Plan for Extra
Measure the room well and buy 10% more laminate flooring for cuts, errors, and future fixes. Check Planks Before You Start
Look at each plank for any defects before using. Put aside any flawed pieces to keep a good finish.Wear Knee Pads for Comfort
Use knee pads to protect your knees during long work times. It helps you work better.Work Slowly and Carefully
Do each step carefully, from placing the first row to cutting planks. Going too fast can cause problems.Keep the Right Expansion Gap
Always leave a 1/4-inch gap at the edges to stop buckling as the laminate changes.
DIY vs. Professional Laminate Flooring Installation
Laminate flooring is popular with homeowners because it’s easy to install yourself. Whether you do it yourself or get a professional depends on your skills, tools, and how hard the project is.
DIY Installation
✅ Pros:
You save money on labor (usually $2 to $5 per sq ft).
Work at your own speed.
Good for small, easy rooms.
❌ Cons:
You need basic tools (spacers, tapping block, saws).
Mistakes like wrong expansion gaps can cause problems.
Takes time, especially for big or odd-shaped areas.
Professional Installation
✅ Pros:
Quick and accurate installation.
Experts handle floor prep, cuts, and transitions.
Usually comes with a warranty.
❌ Cons:
Costs more — adds $2 to $5 per sq ft for labor.
Usually, laminate flooring installation (materials + labor) costs between $4 and $12 per square foot based on style and difficulty. For more info, see our Laminate Flooring Cost Guide.
| Installation Method | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $1.50 – $4 (materials only) | Save on labor Flexible schedule Good for small areas | Time-consuming Requires tools & skills Mistakes can be costly |
| Professional Installation | $4 – $12 (materials + labor) | Fast & precise Warranty often included Handles complex cuts & transitions | Higher upfront cost |
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Laminate Flooring Installation Project?
Now that you know how to install laminate flooring, you’re ready to create a nice and strong floor. If you’d like help, our expert team is here for you.
We take care of everything — from getting the subfloor ready to aligning planks perfectly — so you can relax and enjoy great results. We’ll help you choose the right laminate style and underlayment for your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and check if we serve your area.
